Surfing is one of my greatest passions. Each session is brings something different, and the wind, waves and ocean grab your attention as you focus everything on catching and riding the wave. I find myself grinning at the colour of the sky and the sea. Sometimes I surf aggressively, making big turns and spraying water, other times a more calm and dance-like approach takes hold. Each session unique just as each wave is, and there’s never an opportunity to get bored. Even if I lose focus and my mind starts to wander, it won’t be long before it’s back marvelling at the way the water moves in big walls towards me, or the reflection of light off its surface, even the sound and texture of rain falling on its surface.
It’s well documented that surfing is hugely beneficial for mental wellbeing, and I couldn’t agree more. Amazing organisations like the Wave Project are testament to this. And in my opinion you don’t have to be nailing a top turn to be a surfer - just out there, enjoying the waves, whatever that looks like to you.